September 4, 2015

Patterning Gathers

Hi guys, I get a lot of questions on my Craftsy Pattern Drafting from Ready to Wear class about how to handle gathers. Up to now I've been able to explain it pretty well in just words, but I got a request for a visual, so I've drawn a few illustrations for it. 

First when the area you are patterning is pinned down, make sure you pin it to the square as shown in the class demonstration. Smooth the garment as much as possible wherever possible and pin that area. 
Note that not all areas will touch the line on your paper because of the gathers. Just let it pull away and keep the garment straight and square as you pin. 



Remove the garment and see the pin holes as in the other pieces you've done already.



Draw in your lines, but where the gathered area is, use the curved ruler I demonstrate in the class to extend the armscye area straight up, and use the L line you've drawn on the paper to find the outer edge of the fold line at the top. (If the garment is folded on the straight of grain, you know that this will be a straight line extending all the way through the front of the garment. 


Then you just proceed as usual by putting in your seam allowances and cutting and sewing instructions. 


I hope this helps!
Please let me know and I will continue to supplement the class discussion in this way. 



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